Your opinion? 16 Stacked photo of Blue Bottlefly

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EXIF
Camera : Sony A6500
Lens : Sony 90mm F2.8 macro with diffused flash

ISO 320 | f/5.0 | 1/100s

Mumucow84

New Member
1
Nov 21, 2020
6
12
5
Common Name : Blue Bottle Fly
Species : Calliphora vomitoria

Another attempt at photo stacking. Any rule of how many photo to stack to get the best image?
BlueBottlefly.jpg
 
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Jack

Love Macro
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I donā€™t think there are rules or limit on how many images you can stack . rcorteschile rcorteschile Helix_2648 Helix_2648 or BokehNola BokehNola they have more knowledge in this field.
regarding your photo, looks very good. Is slightly over exposed, but details are there.
 

Jack

Love Macro
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I was so focused on the subject that i didn't realize the over exposed part until you mentioned it. šŸ˜…

:D itā€™s not a lot, just a bit. Maybe you can try to retouch and fix the photo ?
 

Helix_2648

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I agree to Jack Jack about the overexposure. I would recommend to take about 50-80 pictures for such a magnification.
That should be enough to get all details. Does Sony suports integrated focus bracketing in the meantime? Or have you used a macro rail?
 
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rcorteschile

Renato CortƩs
1
Apr 11, 2020
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Good image! It's difficult to make stacks with moving subjects. I can give you a few tips:

  • Put your camera & subject on the same surface (for ex. a sturdy table) -> For studio stacks.
  • Best image is accomplished with the lens wide open or with one step closed.
  • If you use continuous or flash, depends on your setup, movements, etc. Try and check what gives to you the best results. Pay attention to color temperature.
  • In terms of mathematics, there are two formulas called "Lefkowitz formula" and "Nikon microscopy formula" to calculate the number of optimal shots given a distance & magnification. In my case, I just do my calculations based on my experience: for 5X, I use 30um steps. The number of steps will depend on the size of this subject, that is to say, in how much of the subject you like to be in focus. For 4X, I use 40 um steps, for 2-3X, 45 to 50 um steps.
  • You can modify the curve of that image to darken the shadows, avoiding that "milky" background.
  • And most importantly, the light, the light, the light. Try to diffuse the light as much as you can, using paper, foam, any translucent white surface can do the job, so you avoid those burnt parts due to light reflection.
 
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Reactions: Jack

Mumucow84

New Member
1
Nov 21, 2020
6
12
5
I agree to Jack Jack about the overexposure. I would recommend to take about 50-80 pictures for such a magnification.
That should be enough to get all details. Does Sony suports integrated focus bracketing in the meantime? Or have you used a macro rail?
I don't think Sony camera have that feature. when taking this photo I did use a manual rail where I manually push the camera front and back to focus on parts of the fly. I'm still looking for a good focus rail with precise movement. Any recommendations?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jack

Mumucow84

New Member
1
Nov 21, 2020
6
12
5
Good image! It's difficult to make stacks with moving subjects. I can give you a few tips:

  • Put your camera & subject on the same surface (for ex. a sturdy table) -> For studio stacks.
  • Best image is accomplished with the lens wide open or with one step closed.
  • If you use continuous or flash, depends on your setup, movements, etc. Try and check what gives to you the best results. Pay attention to color temperature.
  • In terms of mathematics, there are two formulas called "Lefkowitz formula" and "Nikon microscopy formula" to calculate the number of optimal shots given a distance & magnification. In my case, I just do my calculations based on my experience: for 5X, I use 30um steps. The number of steps will depend on the size of this subject, that is to say, in how much of the subject you like to be in focus. For 4X, I use 40 um steps, for 2-3X, 45 to 50 um steps.
  • You can modify the curve of that image to darken the shadows, avoiding that "milky" background.
  • And most importantly, the light, the light, the light. Try to diffuse the light as much as you can, using paper, foam, any translucent white surface can do the job, so you avoid those burnt parts due to light reflection.
This is good stuff! I never knew there was so much things to consider when making stacks.