Myron

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Oct 21, 2021
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I try to try my hand at macro and extreme macro. But I had the following question. I want to try taking pictures with a lens Plan 4/0.10 160/0.17
I don't understand how to connect it?
I know that the distance from the sensor to the lens should be about 160mm.
Here is not a bad article on the review and connection to the camera.
Link It seems simple, need to move the lens at a certain distance from the camera matrix.


But I've seen it connect through the lens as in this photo below, and I don't understand the benefits and how it's better or worse.

Please explain what the difference is?

Also, I have one more question about the RMS adapter. I see there are two types. Flat and conical.

What is the benefit? In my opinion, the cone RMS Adapter does not block light so much.

Thanks.
 

Chavezshutter

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Hi,

There are 2 types of microscope objectives lenses - finite and infinite. The Plan 4/0.10 160/0.17 lens you mention is a finite lens. I have the same lens but I prefer bellows instead of an extension tube: bellows and x10 micro. The second photo you have shows a setup for an infinite microscope objectives lens, these type of microscope objectives do not focus to a point for the camera sensor unlike finite lenses and therefore you need a secondary lens like 55-200mm lens to get an image unto the sensor. I have not personally used infinite microscope objectives. The other piece of equipment shown in the second photo is an automatic macro rail, these can be used with both finite and infinite setups and are almost essential for extreme macro because of the amount of shots required for extreme macro which makes manual macro rails impractical and tedious work. After 20 or so shots an automatic rail becomes a much quicker and simpler process and manual not so.

I don't know much about the cone RMS adapter having only used the other type, I vaguely remember something about possible flare with the cone one but I am 100% uncertain so don't quote me on that last one.
 
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Y3ll0www

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Jan 1, 2022
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I absolutely agree with Chavezshutter, using a bellows has only advantages and I also have a conical adapter that I never use and I can’t see difference between flat and conical adapter.
My English is not good enough to talk about this subject but I strongly recommend you to watch the videos of allan walls photography on youtube which will allow you to understand all these subtleties.
One last thing, if you can, start by using what I consider as an excellent macro lens and which, mounted on a bellows with adaptators that you can easely find in ebay or aliexpress , gives incredible results : the nikkor EL 50mm f.28 that you can find quite easily on ebay for cheap (I bought the 2 versions for about 60 euros each)
The electronic rail is essential, I have 3 of them, a wemacro, a stackshot and a mjkzz and I could never do without it and if you can, a bellows like the Nikon PB-5 is a must
 

Y3ll0www

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Jan 1, 2022
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for your information I make 99% of my pictures with these lenses
 

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Myron

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I tried inverted HELIOS -44-2 2/58. Very good.
 
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Y3ll0www

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I tried inverted HELIOS -44-2 2/58. Very good.
Using reverted lens is a good start to do serious macro..but, for the same price, I prefer to use a enlarging lens like the Nikon EL 50.. if you can find one you never regretted the few bucks that you put on it
 

Chavezshutter

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The lens is great for the price, other lenses with similar image quality sell for much higher prices. I have not used the lens enough to be honest but I do have some projects coming up where I will get to use the lens more. I am more of a live subject macro shooter personally. One day I might dive into extreme macro with dead insects and the preparation work that all of that involves but for now I have only used the lens on simple subjects like crystals ( see here ), I was pretty new to stacking software and auto rail but it wasn't a bad result.

There is some vignetting but for my image that wasn't an issue. I use a number of vintage lenses on my FF camera and dont mind vignette as I am often adding it in anyways in post. If the vignette is too severe I go into crop mode to trim any edges that have no image for full frame sensor. Center of the lens is definitely where you want to have your subject whenever possible with this lens.
 
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