One of those infernal recommendations posts - macro rail, macro filter, lenses

[kenleephotography]

I usually don't try to flood forums with questions that I suspect are commonly asked, but I am not seeing a discussion about this here, so I thought I'd ask.

I am an experienced night photographer. However, I am totally new to macro, and to be quite frank, I'm not sure how much I will pursue it. I want to experiment and see if I want to pursue it further. I hope I love it, but need to begin slowly with minimal equipment and expenditure so I can just experiment. If I like it, I'll get the good stuff later.

So to get started only, what would you recommend while keeping prices extremely low?

INEXPENSIVE MACRO RAIL:
I already have a helping hands doohickey with four arms and a magnifying glass. This helped, but then I noticed that focusing, especially for the oil bubbles, was a giant-sized pain in the rear. I was interested in purchasing something like the $32 Neewer macro rail. Yes, I know it's cheap, but I really do not want to spend a lot of money only to find that I am not going to do this. If the Neewer isn't gonna cut the mustard, what is something that is a little better but ideally $50 or less?

MACRO FILTERS:
The other thing that I'm curious about is this. Currently, I am using a Pentax K-1 with LensBaby lenses using their extension tubes, which they call Macro Converters. Because the thing is bendable, I just realized that this may not be the smartest decision I made. So if I have several lenses, including a Pentax 28-105mm f/4-5.6.zoom lens (I believe this has a filter size of 62mm, and I also own step-down converters). Would this be good for getting a macro filter, and if so, what kind? The only other lens I have for the Pentax is a 15-30mm, but I suspect that's probably not the best for macro, especially given its bulbous front element. These appear to cost approximately $70 or so.

REVERSED LENS:
This would almost assuredly require a macro rail, but anyway, I know nothing about this other than you can't really adjust anything easily, including focus. Regardless, this might work! Would I be able to use something like a 28-105mm for this? Or do I really need to go with a fixed lens?

ON DOWN THE LINE:
For a Pentax, what's a good solid macro lens that's, say, about $400 or less, if I actually bother to jump in with both feet after a while? Maybe a Pentax 90mm f/2.8 used would also work.

Additional notes: I have a Pentax K-1, as I mentioned, but also have a Nikon D750. However, the one lens that I think I could use is really wiggly and I don't think it will work very well for macro, and the other lens, a 15mm, is probably too wide.

I've attached two photos to show you the results of my first experiment with macro from last weekend. I am not interested so much in photographing bugs and flowers. I think I want a more studied approach, mostly indoors or nearby, and generally weird, abstract, spacey, psychedelic, patterned, along with close-ups of stuff around the house. I'm trying to create something I can do without traveling.

 

[Jack]

Hello kenleephotography . Glad that you asked. We all new in some ways.

INEXPENSIVE MACRO RAIL:

I would recommend to look at newer macro rail, as I got one as well from amazon. Probably you will spend no more then 30$. Unless you are looking for electric one which I would say to check wemacro, but they are a bit more expensive.

MACRO FILTERS

Personally I have never tried filters when comes to macro, they are more for long exposure shots during the day or night. As you are shooting insects and other small objects , all you need is flash , diffuser and macro lens.

Regarding other question, I believe that our @Admin and @Mentor will add more here, and panos_adgr .

By the way, the second photo you attached is just stunning.

 

[MinitecaPhotographie]

Hello kenleephotography and welcome here. I think that you were talking about close-up filter more than simple light filters. Raynox DCR250 does a really good job on long focal lens.

 

[Yohanna_D]

Hello kenleephotography and welcome here;
As far as I know about macro, a low priced lens will be a tamron 90mm but it still is around 100€ or a bit more; it's quite a good lens and you can do a lot of things;
Then, just like MinitecaPhotographie mentioned, you can use close-up filters that you can add on your lens (not necessarily macro lens) and you can have other results; I used to use one of these at the beginning; however I lost my interest in it as soon as I got a real macro lens (not the one that does microscopic close-ups - it's too scientific for me!)
My style is not focused on taking realistic close-ups but more about creating a story, telling it and conveying a message so it's more poetical than realistic - this is what in France is called macro-proximity.
That's all I can say because I am not an expert; I truly hope others that take great close-ups could answer you in depth.
Best wishes.

 

[rcorteschile]

Hi kenleephotography. Take a look at http://extreme-macro.co.uk/

 

[panos_adgr]

Hello kenleephotography !

Interesting questions and in most of them I see logical thoughts.
I wasn't also a macro photographer. I photograph mostly landscapes, long exposures, abandoned buildings, Still life etc.
I got into macro photography about a year ago (I mean more seriously) and many of my first steps and thoughts are written in your questions.
When we enter a new world, the first thing is to get a first impressions of what is all about. We study, experiment and discover things exploring them and with the above mentioned comes or goes our interest. Before we explore deeply into something it is normal not wanting to invest a lot of money (quite rational thought, biased on our more important interests) so we try new things starting with low budget solutions.

Before I start writing I want to say that owing a Pentax K1 camera system gives you some nice and interesting potentials that I will mention in the end of my message.

INEXPENSIVE MACRO RAIL:
Go cheap.
Yes. In case you want to use and experiment with a macro rail set up you can try with a low budget solution. It is surely better to give a small amount of money thus making a cheap investment, without 'crying your money' (Greek Expression) in the future, for buying something that will prove of non interest after your first explorations. As for choosing the best brand for money you can make a research in the web typing XXXX macro rail VS XXXXX macro rail.


MACRO FILTERS:
What kind of Lensbaby lenses do you own?
The dedicated macro ones are the 85mm and 56mm which are also quite 'artistic' because of their artistic softness, wide open that goes away at a great amount when stopped down. They are nice choices for macro but have in mind that they belong to the artistic kind of lenses. If you want to experiment and create abstract like images with dreamy background they will do it greatly! If you want a more 'conservative' result you will have to look elsewhere.
About the zoom lenses (24-105 and 15-30) they won't do the proper job and you might not get the proper macro impression to motivate you, even if you use a macro filter.
Speaking exclusively for macro filters, I would recommend them but with a cheap 50mm f/2.0 lens and always in Manual Focus! AF internal camera and lens systems are designed to function within the ranges that lenses are designed to focus. The chipsets exchange Information for focusing/distance/exposure for the best result. When you add a close up filter and use Auto Focus you will notice that many times AF will be having some hard time but it will focus! When I use my nikkor AF 50mm f/1.8D lens with my +2 close up filter all my Nikon bodies focus instantly and accurately but sometimes I feel that the system is a bit confused with the motor trying to push focus in case I'm out of the limit focus limit that filter creates. So I use my macro filter in manual focus mode trying to avoid lens gear system fatigue, using the focus confirmation indications. It takes just a bit more time but I prefer it this way.
Filters will help you to explore macro photography but you will also have to keep in mind that you are adding one more element on the scientifically and optimally designed lens you will be using. That means that you have to choose a good one trying to avoid extra CoMa in strong contrast subjects/scenes.
It is a nice way to start though.
This set up was my first 'try' to enter macro. In my case I was able to go at about 1:2 macro ratio using my crop body and 1:3 using my Full Frame Nikon bodies. In the case of FF it wasn't enough sometimes and this is why in the beginning i was using mostly my D7200 (aps-c) camera. My lens choice was strictly 50mm because of their simple optical formula and large apertures using a Nikkor AF50mm f/1.8D and a Helios 81n 50mm f/2.0 which both of them where delivering amazing bokeh that non of my zoom lens could even get close!
So a YES for macro filters but with a prime lens of 50mm -105mm or more lens when and if possible.
The 50mm are not expensive and a descent macro filter is also not expensive.

REVERSED LENS:
I have tried this as well many times. It is a great solution but with many drawbacks....
Reversing the lens will give you stunning close distances. You might even go up to 5:1 just with your adapter but depending on the lens design.
I've never tried it with my zooms. In my case zooms in macro photography are out of the equation for the moment. In the future I might try a zoom that does macro. There are a lot out there with quite a good rep. But for the moment I'm staying with my primes because of many reasons that are basically subject isolation from foreground and background / DOF performance and bokeh.
The reverse lens case is a not an easy case. You will need a macro rail to be able to focus with accuracy. When I use my none macro 50mm primes reversed with the adapter I have, I have to face two problems...
One is the loss of lens communication with camera digitally through contacts and mechanically AI-S feeler and aperture closing mechanism (electronically and mechanically). Exposure wise you get around with this using live view by closing the aperture with the aperture ring in the case that your lens has an aperture ring. If not you forget about it...
Also DOF becomes hair thin... That means that you will have to use close aperture but again with not a wide DOF. So here you go with focus stacking.
Finally we have to have in mind that lens optical schemes are not designed to be used reversed. They will do the job though but the result will be lens depended. In many cases the impact in picture quality, affects CoMa performance and you might have halos/softness around your subjects at wide apertures. But the above have to do with the lens used.
Zooms have more complicated optical schemes with many elements and are not the best preferred option. But you can give it a try and share the results with us.

ON DOWN THE LINE:
A dedicated prime lens is the best way to go and the most investment to put your money on.
Macro lenses are designed and optimised for Macro photography! None of the above results will give you the ease of use like in the case of the macro.

And now the thing that I kept for the end of the message.
Pentax system gives you the opportunity to find some really excellent older lenses with just a few money! There are loads of Pentax K mount lenses that are legendary in performance and your K1 is also very flexible. It has a system to use older manual lenses. And there are many which you can use.

In my case i.e. I bought a 70'S - 80'S Vivitar 55mm f/2.8 1:1 macro lens with just 110 euros. Excellent performance!
In the future I might invest in an AF lens but for the moment it does its job with great performance and results. I do not bother about AF cause I'm used in shooting MF when I'm doing macro.

In case you want to try a budget older lens for macro I'm putting a link for Pentax K1 mount combability with older lenses.

Pentax K-1 Lens Compatibility Guide

A comprehensive overview of what lenses are supported by the Pentax K-1 full-frame.

www.pentaxforums.com

And of course ebay is the place to find easily vintage lenses. Beware of the description and condition.

If you do not want to be in the fuss of the vintage lenses then a dedicated macro lens is the best solution above all. And if you go for a used one it will be even cheaper.

The above also apply to your Nikon D750 case as well.

Sorry for the long answer and I hope it will be helpful.