Photography Understanding your camera's ISO profile and how you can benefit from it.

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Chavezshutter

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Hello,

Yesterday while answering a thread I was sidetracked looking at some information that I think would benefit our members. Let's begin.

Most of us have a pretty good understanding of what ISO is, but for those who unaware ISO is gain, when we increase it we raise the sensor's sensitity to light and therefore we get a brighter image but there is a penalty for this, when we raise gain it is not just signal (the actual image - good stuff) increasing we are also raising noise (grain - the badstuff) which ends up creating grainy/noisy images if there is too much noise to signal ratios. For this same reasons most photographers learn early to try to keep their ISO low whenever possible but newer technology is changing this to a degree.

Dual ISO circuit:
In the past ISO technology was more straight forward, if you were to measure the noise to signal ratio at different ISOs for an older camera like this almost 20 year old Canon 20D I have used for this example, it would look something like this:

oldiso.jpg
As you can see with this graph above in mind the concept of keeping ISO low seems logical and makes sense across all ISO ranges. But newer cameras now more commonly use dual ISO circuits and this means that their graph looks more often like this (Nikon Z 7ii used for this example):

newiso.jpg
Obvious differences like the ISO range will of course be better with the newer camera, hardly a surprise, but what we need to notice is the shape of the graph, particularly here:
newisocloser.jpg
These 4 ISO ranges are ISO 160, 200, 250 and 320 and they all have worst noise to signal ratio than ISO 400, this is because for Nikon Z 7ii, ISO 400 is where the second circuit is active and this drives down the noise level at this ISO. In this type of ISO profile the concept of lower ISO is always better is not always true. For this camera, Iower ISOs up to 125 are better but ISO 160-320 are best avoided to be replaced by ISO 400 whenever possible. After ISO 400 the concept of lower ISO is better rings true once again. For those that want this last part recapped - Yes, your camera will take a less noisier shot at a higher ISO where it's second ISO circuit is active than a photo at a lower ISO without a dual ISO circuit. Avoid the first peak in the graph that are above the dual circuit's level like the ones highlighted in red in the graph above.

ISO invariance adds another layer to this but we can discuss this further later. What I would highly recommend for anyone that owns a camera or mobile to head to Photons to photo's website and pick their camera model on the right side panel and you will then be able to see and get to know a little more about your camera's ISO profile, whether you have dual ISO or not and if you do have it - what is your dual ISO number? On My Sony a7iii ISO 640 is my dual ISO and I avoid ISO 250-500 when possible. I would love to hear your opinions, experiences, questions. How many of you were already aware of this and use this concept? Hope it helps šŸ˜
 
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lovitazoe

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Something new for me šŸ¤£. I never knew about this before. So I checked and this is mine.
Screenshot_20220301-121703.png
 

Chavezshutter

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Something new for me šŸ¤£. I never knew about this before. So I checked and this is mine.
A typical graph, no dual ISO circuit but a very steady and predictable climb in noise levels as you go up in ISO which is good. For your camera the notion of lower ISO is better applies all the time and thats fine, that is also how it is for dual ISO camera most of the time except for the "bad ISOs". Another thing I can tell from looking at your graph is that your camera will perform its best at ISOs lower than 1600 and for some bad news and good news - The bad first to end on a high - the empty circles represent a value not measurable by the graphs scale so their noise levels are unknown and now for the good - after ISO 1600 the noise levels off meaning they are not getting any worse even at max ISO. Hope you learned a little more about your camera šŸ˜€
 
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lovitazoe

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A typical graph, no dual ISO circuit but a very steady and predictable climb in noise levels as you go up in ISO which is good. For your camera the notion of lower ISO is better applies all the time and thats fine, that is also how it is for dual ISO camera most of the time except for the "bad ISOs". Another thing I can tell from looking at your graph is that your camera will perform its best at ISOs lower than 1600 and for some bad news and good news - The bad first to end on a high - the empty circles represent a value not measurable by the graphs scale so their noise levels are unknown and now for the good - after ISO 1600 the noise levels off meaning they are not getting any worse even at max ISO. Hope you learned a little more about your camera šŸ˜€
Thanks for your explanation, Aaron! šŸ˜ƒ It helps a lot. I rarely use ISO 1600 šŸ˜†.
 
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oscar118

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ISO invariance adds another layer to this but we can discuss this further later. What I would highly recommend for anyone that owns a camera or mobile to head to Photons to photo's website and pick their camera model on the right side panel and you will then be able to see and get to know a little more about your camera's ISO profile, whether you have dual ISO or not and if you do have it - what is your dual ISO number? On My Sony a7iii ISO 640 is my dual ISO and I avoid ISO 250-500 when possible. I would love to hear your opinions, experiences, questions. How many of you were already aware of this and use this concept? Hope it helps šŸ˜
My camera (Nikon D5600) is ISO-invariant. That means, you can choose to take a low light shot (in RAW mode) at say ISO 1600, or at ISO 200 and then adjust exposure in post with Lightroom or any processing sofware.
The result, regarding noise, is similar. However, you gain a lot of dymamic range by using the low ISO.
The downside, you will not see a damn thing in your cameras screen if you try to check the photo after taking it at low ISO (it will be far too dark). You will have to wait until you process it to see what you got.
 

lovitazoe

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My camera (Nikon D5600) is ISO-invariant. That means, you can choose to take a low light shot (in RAW mode) at say ISO 1600, or at ISO 200 and then adjust exposure in post with Lightroom or any processing sofware.
The result, regarding noise, is similar. However, you gain a lot of dymamic range by using the low ISO.
The downside, you will not see a damn thing in your cameras screen if you try to check the photo after taking it at low ISO (it will be far too dark). You will have to wait until you process it to see what you got.
Could you enlightened me? I face this problem while using my new flash. šŸ˜ƒ
How do you know if your subject focus is on point when the camera's screen is too dark?
 
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oscar118

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If I understand your question well, it is not about ISO-invariance but about low light focusing in general?

You need to manually focus with a strong light and keep all things fixed... not feasible for handheld shooting.

For the water drops for example, I put "something" (a metal screw) with the tip in the place where the drops will fall, illuminate it with a continuous light source such as the cell phone flashlight, and set the focus manually.
 

lovitazoe

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If I understand your question well, it is not about ISO-invariance but about low light focusing in general?

You need to manually focus with a strong light and keep all things fixed... not feasible for handheld shooting.

For the water drops for example, I put "something" (a metal screw) with the tip in the place where the drops will fall, illuminate it with a continuous light source such as the cell phone flashlight, and set the focus manually.
Yes, you got me.

Oh my mind is open a little now šŸ˜ƒ. Thanks for your explanation.
 
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Chavezshutter

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My camera (Nikon D5600) is ISO-invariant. That means, you can choose to take a low light shot (in RAW mode) at say ISO 1600, or at ISO 200 and then adjust exposure in post with Lightroom or any processing sofware.
The result, regarding noise, is similar. However, you gain a lot of dymamic range by using the low ISO.
The downside, you will not see a damn thing in your cameras screen if you try to check the photo after taking it at low ISO (it will be far too dark). You will have to wait until you process it to see what you got.
Yes that correct regarding ISO invariance. With dynamic range (DR) lower ISO do provide better DR most of the time on all cameras but once again its not straight forwards with dual ISO circuits, the same website I mentioned has other graphs about this, like this...

DR.jpg

As you can see for your camera (blue graph), better DR at lower ISOs is always true but a dual ISO camera (a7iii, black graph) has better DR when the second ISO circuit is active at 640 than for the two previous ISOs (400 and 500). If we take into consideration the Noise to Signal ratio from my first post we can conclude that a camera with with a standard single circuit ISO should shoot at the lowest possible ISO all the time. But for a dual ISO camera there are certain ISO ranges that perform worse both in terms of signal to noise ratio and DR (ISO 400, 500 are specifically looking bad for my camera) and so they should be avoided when possible. I try to go under the bad ranges whenever possible and if that doesnt work I jump to ISO 640 but dont obessess about it, if I need a certain ISO number to get the shot I want I take it.

This is a link to all of Photons to Photo's graph's, some of which I have no idea about šŸ˜‚ and this is a link for the DR graph I showed above
 

thematelot

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Well it just goes to show your never too old to learn! My camera (Oly OM-D E-M1 Mark II - daft name!) handbook recommends 200 as the native ISO, whereas the graph appears to suggest 320 would be nearer the mark. Likewise 2000 rather than 1600. My brain hurts! Am I interpreting the graph correctly or am I misunderstanding?