Photography Let's talk about aperture

[Jack]

Hi. Let's talk about photo aperture in this thread. What aperture you usually set fo your images and why. What subjects are you photographing and what are you trying to achieve when setting up the aperture.

Me, I set mine usually around f2.8-6. That's because I do take images of subject. If it's a low light situation, I can change my aperture to f2.8 and increasing my ISO, while my shutter speed is always on 400-500 no lower.

I found very annoying when dropping the shutter speed, as takes slightly longer to take the shot, especially when doing insects.

 

[kzurro]

for macro, mine is almost always fixed at f/8. I rarely use f/11 and never smaller than that, as it produces a lot of softness due to diffraction. sometimes I go wider than f/8 to get a more blurry background, but as the DoF becomes thinner, I usually step back a bit, sacrificing magnification and cropping in post.

 

[Jack]

for macro, mine is almost always fixed at f/8. I rarely use f/11 and never smaller than that, as it produces a lot of softness due to diffraction. sometimes I go wider than f/8 to get a more blurry background, but as the DoF becomes thinner, I usually step back a bit, sacrificing magnification and cropping in post.

Having you aperture that hight, you are using flashlight? I do sometimes set mine at f8 too. But depends what I'm shooting.

 

[Roman/F96]

My favorite aperture is 14-16. But this point definitely needs clarification: not all manufacturers bother with recalculating and notifying the Effective Aperture. For example, Nikon does it, but Canon does not. Therefore, on my nikkor 105 I see the real state of affairs, but on the Canon MPE65 - no. But the matter is fixable - the network is full of tables that help to understand the real state of affairs. It is more important to understand for yourself which aperture is optimal and where the photographer is willing to put up with diffraction. Interestingly, the MPE65 lens with F/16 equal to F/16 onNikkor 105, for example, is less prone to diffraction. Well-organized outside light means you don't have to worry too much about the aperture. Post-processing and a bit of sharpening also help with the aperture limits. Here is an example of a shot at a closed aperture, where the equivalent value reaches F/96!

 

[Jack]

My favorite aperture is 14-16. But this point definitely needs clarification: not all manufacturers bother with recalculating and notifying the Effective Aperture. For example, Nikon does it, but Canon does not. Therefore, on my nikkor 105 I see the real state of affairs, but on the Canon MPE65 - no. But the matter is fixable - the network is full of tables that help to understand the real state of affairs. It is more important to understand for yourself which aperture is optimal and where the photographer is willing to put up with diffraction. Interestingly, the MPE65 lens with F/16 equal to F/16 onNikkor 105, for example, is less prone to diffraction. Well-organized outside light means you don't have to worry too much about the aperture. Post-processing and a bit of sharpening also help with the aperture limits. Here is an example of a shot at a closed aperture, where the equivalent value reaches F/96!

For me 14-16 is very small aperture. I don't usually set mine at that number, as I usually shoot only static objects. I might guess that different aperture is required when focusing and shooting insects. And yes, we need to take in consideration post processing as well.

 

[Jack]

My favorite aperture is 14-16. But this point definitely needs clarification: not all manufacturers bother with recalculating and notifying the Effective Aperture. For example, Nikon does it, but Canon does not. Therefore, on my nikkor 105 I see the real state of affairs, but on the Canon MPE65 - no. But the matter is fixable - the network is full of tables that help to understand the real state of affairs. It is more important to understand for yourself which aperture is optimal and where the photographer is willing to put up with diffraction. Interestingly, the MPE65 lens with F/16 equal to F/16 onNikkor 105, for example, is less prone to diffraction. Well-organized outside light means you don't have to worry too much about the aperture. Post-processing and a bit of sharpening also help with the aperture limits. Here is an example of a shot at a closed aperture, where the equivalent value reaches F/96!

Just stunning photo Roman/F96 , what technique do you use?

 

[Roman/F96]

My favorite aperture is 14-16. But this point definitely needs clarification: not all manufacturers bother with recalculating and notifying the Effective Aperture. For example, Nikon does it, but Canon does not. Therefore, on my nikkor 105 I see the real state of affairs, but on the Canon MPE65 - no. But the matter is fixable - the network is full of tables that help to understand the real state of affairs. It is more important to understand for yourself which aperture is optimal and where the photographer is willing to put up with diffraction. Interestingly, the MPE65 lens with F/16 equal to F/16 onNikkor 105, for example, is less prone to diffraction. Well-organized outside light means you don't have to worry too much about the aperture. Post-processing and a bit of sharpening also help with the aperture limits. Here is an example of a shot at a closed aperture, where the equivalent value reaches F/96!

Thank You! I use so many different lenses and systems. in this particular case, I used an MPE 65 and a Nikon sb800 flash with a diffuser. This is the only way to shoot fast moving insects in a dark rain forest.

 

[Jack]

My favorite aperture is 14-16. But this point definitely needs clarification: not all manufacturers bother with recalculating and notifying the Effective Aperture. For example, Nikon does it, but Canon does not. Therefore, on my nikkor 105 I see the real state of affairs, but on the Canon MPE65 - no. But the matter is fixable - the network is full of tables that help to understand the real state of affairs. It is more important to understand for yourself which aperture is optimal and where the photographer is willing to put up with diffraction. Interestingly, the MPE65 lens with F/16 equal to F/16 onNikkor 105, for example, is less prone to diffraction. Well-organized outside light means you don't have to worry too much about the aperture. Post-processing and a bit of sharpening also help with the aperture limits. Here is an example of a shot at a closed aperture, where the equivalent value reaches F/96!

Wow, would be very interesting to see your equipment and diffuser on this page

Showcase

Share your vintage lenses, your in house studio, equipment or macro diffusers on this page. Or simply leave reviews on lenses you are using for helping newbies into macro photography.

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I do use only 100mm L Canon, which works fine for me.

 

[Roman/F96]

My favorite aperture is 14-16. But this point definitely needs clarification: not all manufacturers bother with recalculating and notifying the Effective Aperture. For example, Nikon does it, but Canon does not. Therefore, on my nikkor 105 I see the real state of affairs, but on the Canon MPE65 - no. But the matter is fixable - the network is full of tables that help to understand the real state of affairs. It is more important to understand for yourself which aperture is optimal and where the photographer is willing to put up with diffraction. Interestingly, the MPE65 lens with F/16 equal to F/16 onNikkor 105, for example, is less prone to diffraction. Well-organized outside light means you don't have to worry too much about the aperture. Post-processing and a bit of sharpening also help with the aperture limits. Here is an example of a shot at a closed aperture, where the equivalent value reaches F/96!

This is what my setup looks like

 

[Jack]

My favorite aperture is 14-16. But this point definitely needs clarification: not all manufacturers bother with recalculating and notifying the Effective Aperture. For example, Nikon does it, but Canon does not. Therefore, on my nikkor 105 I see the real state of affairs, but on the Canon MPE65 - no. But the matter is fixable - the network is full of tables that help to understand the real state of affairs. It is more important to understand for yourself which aperture is optimal and where the photographer is willing to put up with diffraction. Interestingly, the MPE65 lens with F/16 equal to F/16 onNikkor 105, for example, is less prone to diffraction. Well-organized outside light means you don't have to worry too much about the aperture. Post-processing and a bit of sharpening also help with the aperture limits. Here is an example of a shot at a closed aperture, where the equivalent value reaches F/96!

That's interesting set up. Share it here better, otherwise this photo gets lost

Showcase

Share your vintage lenses, your in house studio, equipment or macro diffusers on this page. Or simply leave reviews on lenses you are using for helping newbies into macro photography.

macroderie.com