I used to shoot without flash, at f/8 1/320 (and with IS enabled, yes, my hands are that shaky), but of course, that meant using high ISOs at times.Having you aperture that hight, you are using flashlight? I do sometimes set mine at f8 too. But depends what I'm shooting.for macro, mine is almost always fixed at f/8. I rarely use f/11 and never smaller than that, as it produces a lot of softness due to diffraction. sometimes I go wider than f/8 to get a more blurry background, but as the DoF becomes thinner, I usually step back a bit, sacrificing magnification and cropping in post.
there's a formula for effective aperture: f-number*(magnification+1), so with my 1:1 lens at maximun magnification, as I almost always use f/8, the effective aperture would be 8*(1+1)=16.My favorite aperture is 14-16. But this point definitely needs clarification: not all manufacturers bother with recalculating and notifying the Effective Aperture. For example, Nikon does it, but Canon does not. Therefore, on my nikkor 105 I see the real state of affairs, but on the Canon MPE65 - no. But the matter is fixable - the network is full of tables that help to understand the real state of affairs. It is more important to understand for yourself which aperture is optimal and where the photographer is willing to put up with diffraction. Interestingly, the MPE65 lens with F/16 equal to F/16 onNikkor 105, for example, is less prone to diffraction. Well-organized outside light means you don't have to worry too much about the aperture. Post-processing and a bit of sharpening also help with the aperture limits. Here is an example of a shot at a closed aperture, where the equivalent value reaches F/96!
I just checked the link, and seems to be kind of diffuser. In my experience, I prefer to have a bit higher ISO, and having my aperture around f6-8, to avoid out-of focus or any blur spots. If its necessary, I will use tripod or flash.Having you aperture that hight, you are using flashlight? I do sometimes set mine at f8 too. But depends what I'm shooting.for macro, mine is almost always fixed at f/8. I rarely use f/11 and never smaller than that, as it produces a lot of softness due to diffraction. sometimes I go wider than f/8 to get a more blurry background, but as the DoF becomes thinner, I usually step back a bit, sacrificing magnification and cropping in post.
That's also one more reason why I'm using max aperture of f2. 8 to get as much light as possible and to get my subject sharp. But, its a lot what do you want to achieve from the photo.HiJack,
interesting topic. It really depends on what you want to do. I don't use f/2.8 very often unless I want to isolate something from the background. Since I stack most of my macros I use mostly f/4 up to F/5.6.
But I change it to f/14-f/20 if I use my Raynox MSN-505 to get an acceptable DOF even if I stack the picture.
I take landscape or architectural pictures mostly at f/13 during the day and f/8 during night.
But at the end each lens has a specific aperture where you can archive the optimal sharpness. It's mostly around f/8 to f/11. So this might be also an interesting point to consider.
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