Want critique First time shooting Marco

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EXIF
iso 200
90mm
f 2.8
1/500

Chavezshutter

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Definitely better than my first attempts šŸ˜†, how are you shooting this, are you using AF? Some people are of the opinion that you can use AF but I find it becomes less accurate the more you get closer to 1:1 magnication so I do all my macro with manual focus. Another thing to consider is focus aids like focus peaking and EVF magnification, I used to use peaking but prefer EVF magnication nowdays. EVF magnification will also let you see the subject closer before you shoot and allow you to change your angle and composition accordingly.

On another note, your aperture (f/2.8) creates a very narrow depth of field which then requires much steadier hands for handheld shots (IBIS and lens stabilization helps) , tripod of course makes this easier but even then it still requires accuracy and timing. It makes it much easier to use a narrower f/stop like f/8 +, needing even narrower f/stops the closer you get to the subject, eventually needing flash in order to get enough light on the subject.

Overall its not a terrible attempt, just a few changes to your settings and approach and you will be on your way šŸ˜Š, hope to see more.
 
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Lazarito305

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Feb 8, 2022
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Definitely better than my first attempts šŸ˜†, how are you shooting this, are you using AF? Some people are of the opinion that you can use AF but I find it becomes less accurate the more you get closer to 1:1 magnication so I do all my macro with manual focus. Another thing to consider is focus aids like focus peaking and EVF magnification, I used to use peaking but prefer EVF magnication nowdays. EVF magnification will also let you see the subject closer before you shoot and allow you to change your angle and composition accordingly.

On another note, your aperture (f/2.8) creates a very narrow depth of field which then requires much steadier hands for handheld shots (IBIS and lens stabilization helps) , tripod of course makes this easier but even then it still requires accuracy and timing. It makes it much easier to use a narrower f/stop like f/8 +, needing even narrower f/stops the closer you get to the subject, eventually needing flash in order to get enough light on the subject.

Overall its not a terrible attempt, just a few changes to your settings and approach and you will be on your way šŸ˜Š, hope to see more.
What type of flash would you recommend for my A6400? I was looking but I really don't know what to look for. I read online about a circle flash or something like this. I did use AF for that one. Also I was having an issue finding this spider on the lens with the manual focus. I just got the lens today so I don't really know how to use it right..
 

Chavezshutter

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What type of flash would you recommend for my A6400? I was looking but I really don't know what to look for. I read online about a circle flash or something like this. I did use AF for that one. Also I was having an issue finding this spider on the lens with the manual focus. I just got the lens today so I don't really know how to use it right..
You cant go wrong with Godox, my brother (who used the a6400) used the same flash as me which is the TT 685s , the last letter is important when you choose one, it must be s (for sony) if you want to be able to use all the features like TTL and high speed sync. A Canon equivalent of the flash which is the TT 685c will fire on a sony camera but it will not be able to use TTL, high speed sync and other features.

I would recommend a regular single flash over a circle flash for a number of reasons, the main one being that a regular flashes has many uses on all kinds of photography styles and subjects where as a circle or ring flash should not in my opinion be used in things like water droplets or spider's eyes where it creates ring highlights. Furthermore, ring flashes often use LEDs to power the flash and this type of light has almost zero freezing power which is one of flash's greatest asset. A comment I regular make of regular flashes is that they can freeze a falling water droplet at speeds as low as 1/200 second, no flash and you will need over 1/1600 sec. to do the same.

The 90mm is a fantastic lens, one of the sharper lenses in the Sony lineup, you will get the hang of it soon enough but I highly recommend 2 things, 1) set your camera up so that you can make the most of the inbuilt focus aids to help you. Whether that is focus peaking or EVF magnication that depends on what you prefer. For me I always need access to EVF magnification so I have it programmed to a button for quick access. And 2) Get comfortable with manual focus - there is no AF made accurate enough to do macro, specially when you get to 1:1 magnification and above. There is a hybrid focus mode you can use which is DMF, this mode uses AF but you can then override the focus manually to ensure it is sharp. Lastly, diffusion is a must on flashes if you want beautiful, soft light. Without it you will get harsh, specular highlights which are undesireable in a macro shot.
 
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Lazarito305

New Member
Feb 8, 2022
47
115
14
You cant go wrong with Godox, my brother (who used the a6400) used the same flash as me which is the TT 685s , the last letter is important when you choose one, it must be s (for sony) if you want to be able to use all the features like TTL and high speed sync. A Canon equivalent of the flash which is the TT 685c will fire on a sony camera but it will not be able to use TTL, high speed sync and other features.

I would recommend a regular single flash over a circle flash for a number of reasons, the main one being that a regular flashes has many uses on all kinds of photography styles and subjects where as a circle or ring flash should not in my opinion be used in things like water droplets or spider's eyes where it creates ring highlights. Furthermore, ring flashes often use LEDs to power the flash and this type of light has almost zero freezing power which is one of flash's greatest asset. A comment I regular make of regular flashes is that they can freeze a falling water droplet at speeds as low as 1/200 second, no flash and you will need over 1/1600 sec. to do the same.

The 90mm is a fantastic lens, one of the sharper lenses in the Sony lineup, you will get the hang of it soon enough but I highly recommend 2 things, 1) set your camera up so that you can make the most of the inbuilt focus aids to help you. Whether that is focus peaking or EVF magnication that depends on what you prefer. For me I always need access to EVF magnification so I have it programmed to a button for quick access. And 2) Get comfortable with manual focus - there is no AF made accurate enough to do macro, specially when you get to 1:1 magnification and above. There is a hybrid focus mode you can use which is DMF, this mode uses AF but you can then override the focus manually to ensure it is sharp. Lastly, diffusion is a must on flashes if you want beautiful, soft light. Without it you will get harsh, specular highlights which are undesireable in a macro shot.
Thanks for all the information. Do you have a tutorial on how to use the flash? Or any good tutorials that are on the web for macro photography.
 
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Chavezshutter

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Thanks for all the information. Do you have a tutorial on how to use the flash? Or any good tutorials that are on the web for macro photography.
I have these regarding general flash in macro and settings for flash and camera

Micael Widell

and this one which is about lighting in macro

Photography Life

last is this one which is specific to the TT685.

Alex Silva Photography - TT685

Don't get overwhelmed with the details, flash in macro is relatively simple, we are not doing off camera flash stuff with remote triggers or using multiple flashes. All you need to know is how to mount the flash on the camera, turn it on and then use an informed guess as a starting point which you can then fine tune.

Mike Smith on youtube also has good videos on flash specific to Sony, worth checking out