Help with focus stacking!

[Astronut]

Hi all, my first post. I'm very much a beginner with fairly simple kit. I can't afford much! I can't seem to get my stacked pictures to align fully. There are parts which are double. I use a cheap focus rail with as small increments as possible, or I just change the focus using the lens. Either way I still get the same alignment errors. You can see duplicated hairs in this photo.

I use a sturdy tripod. My kit is Canon EOS 60D, Sigma 105mm lens and Raynox 250 (in this photo). It's driving me mad and I can't seem to get it right. Any ideas?

 

[Jack]

Hello A Astronut . Could you please upload the photo. I believe you forgot. Regarding stacking images, here is a tutorial which could help https://macroderie.com/resources/how-a-stack-works-with-olympus.91/

Personally I don’t do stacking images, bu I believe Helix_2648 @Mentor or Ron Westbroek , could give you a better advice in this case.

Also, I don’t think it can be the issue with your lens or rail , also, your Lens I set to Manual focus ?

 

[Astronut]

Hi, I've just taken some shots with the rail and camera fixed directly to the tripod rather than on the gimbal mount, and the results are a lot better. Before I carry on with this thread, I'll try taking photos of the offending subject to see if it's any better. Many thanks.

 

[Jack]

Hi, I've just taken some shots with the rail and camera fixed directly to the tripod rather than on the gimbal mount, and the results are a lot better. Before I carry on with this thread, I'll try taking photos of the offending subject to see if it's any better. Many thanks.

I would definitely not put rai on a gimbal. As far as I know, you use gimbal for birding. And yes, definitely rail fixed directly to the tripod will do much better.

 

[Ron Westbroek]

Hi Astronut
You really have to practice for focus stacking. If you see something double, there must have been movement, even if it is only half a millimeter or less. With which program do you stack the photos? You have to focus only with the rail or only with the lens, not at the same time. Don't know what program you are using for stacking, but Helicon Focus or Zerene Stacker work best. From a rail or tripod, you have to use image stabilization on the camera.
I am lucky that my camera does it itself.

HOW TO MAKE YOUR PHOTOS SUITABLE FOR FOCUS STACKING
With some cameras it is now possible to apply focus stacking from the camera. The camera then takes the various photos, so that you can stack them later via Photoshop, for example. There are even cameras that do the merge in-camera! Most cameras do not have this function and you have to move the focus point and take the photos yourself. Taking a photo suitable for focus stacking therefore takes longer than taking a "normal" photo, because it involves multiple photos of the same subject.

Step 1: Place the tripod in a safe and secure place, where the camera can register as few movements as possible.
Step 2: Choose the right composition. If you have Live View you can easily frame.
Step 3: Set the camera to the M position. Try to keep the exposure the same for each photo. Is this not possible because of the alternation between sunlight and shade, for example? No problem, you can always perform post-processing (there is a greater risk of failure). Make sure that the camera also takes pictures in RAW to get the best out of the post-processing.
Step 4 Set the number of focus points to one. Think about what you want in focus and then take a picture of the center point of the object or subject. Take more pictures as desired to the furthest point of the subject and to the point closest to it. Remember, it's better to have too many than too few photos.
Tip: When you take several photos that belong together, you can eventually lose count. Take a picture of your hand or something else to be able to recognize the segments later on the computer.

 

[Astronut]

Hi Astronut
You really have to practice for focus stacking. If you see something double, there must have been movement, even if it is only half a millimeter or less. With which program do you stack the photos? You have to focus only with the rail or only with the lens, not at the same time. Don't know what program you are using for stacking, but Helicon Focus or Zerene Stacker work best. From a rail or tripod, you have to use image stabilization on the camera.
I am lucky that my camera does it itself.

HOW TO MAKE YOUR PHOTOS SUITABLE FOR FOCUS STACKING
With some cameras it is now possible to apply focus stacking from the camera. The camera then takes the various photos, so that you can stack them later via Photoshop, for example. There are even cameras that do the merge in-camera! Most cameras do not have this function and you have to move the focus point and take the photos yourself. Taking a photo suitable for focus stacking therefore takes longer than taking a "normal" photo, because it involves multiple photos of the same subject.

Step 1: Place the tripod in a safe and secure place, where the camera can register as few movements as possible.
Step 2: Choose the right composition. If you have Live View you can easily frame.
Step 3: Set the camera to the M position. Try to keep the exposure the same for each photo. Is this not possible because of the alternation between sunlight and shade, for example? No problem, you can always perform post-processing (there is a greater risk of failure). Make sure that the camera also takes pictures in RAW to get the best out of the post-processing.
Step 4 Set the number of focus points to one. Think about what you want in focus and then take a picture of the center point of the object or subject. Take more pictures as desired to the furthest point of the subject and to the point closest to it. Remember, it's better to have too many than too few photos.
Tip: When you take several photos that belong together, you can eventually lose count. Take a picture of your hand or something else to be able to recognize the segments later on the computer.

Thank you very much for this. This is what I do so I'm doing quite well so far, then! The best software I've found for stacking is Affinity Photo. I've used Zerene and Photoshop and neither of them does as well. I can't remember if I've used Helicon. See the attached stack of my tarantula's shed skin and fangs. What do you think?

 

[Jack]

Thank you very much for this. This is what I do so I'm doing quite well so far, then! The best software I've found for stacking is Affinity Photo. I've used Zerene and Photoshop and neither of them does as well. I can't remember if I've used Helicon. See the attached stack of my tarantula's shed skin and fangs. What do you think?

Here is a small tutorial about stacking softwares, give couple of images as results . You might have a look.

Guide - Test stacking software

Originally uploaded by Christophe Berche on June 5th, 2020 Having a little time this week (which will not last), I amused myself by comparing 3 stacking software Helicon Focus Zerene Stacker PS I have compiled 5 photos attached the 3...

macroderie.com

 

[Astronut]

Here is a small tutorial about stacking softwares, give couple of images as results . You might have a look.

Guide - Test stacking software

Originally uploaded by Christophe Berche on June 5th, 2020 Having a little time this week (which will not last), I amused myself by comparing 3 stacking software Helicon Focus Zerene Stacker PS I have compiled 5 photos attached the 3...

macroderie.com

Thank you.

 

[Ron Westbroek]

panos_adgr

No I wouldn't know this either. Maybe because of the focus because the subject slants backwards.

 

[Jack]

Hi again A Astronut , Also here is one more very detailed tutorial where you can download the PDF file and read it.

Guide - How to shoot and edit pictures of glowing mushrooms

Dear fellows and mushroom fans! I'm really proud to present to all of you my new tutorial about everything which you need to great pictures of glowing mushrooms! Please find the PDF attached (blue button to the upper right on your screen) or...

macroderie.com